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Q&A Archive
Q & A | Tips for Lining the Waterline (Asian Eyes)
Posted in Q&A
Tagged artist tip, artistrhi, make-up artist advice, q&a, rhia amio
Q & A | Lasting Liner Tips
QUESTION:
hi Rhia,
really love picking up tips from your blog. since you posted about liner recently, i’d like to ask you about tips to prevent pencil liner from smudging. i’ve tried almost every single waterproof pencil liner in the market (MUFE, Urban Decay, etc) and i have no luck so far. i only apply on my upper lash line and the liner always transfers to my lower lid whenever i wink. (long sigh here)… i tried setting my liner with eye shadow to keep it in place… it stayed longer, but after like an hour or two, it still transfers (as long as i wink hard). should i give up on pencil liners? i’ve tried liquid liners and no smearing so far… but sometimes i prefer the soft look of pencil liners (and not putting my pencil liners to waste) so i’m still trying them to see if there’s still hope. i have asian eyes with double lids by the way. :)
more power and heart you! :)
regards,
Wanda
ANSWER:
Tell me about it! I too think I have tried nearly every recommended waterproof pencil on the market…only to find that most don’t stand the test of my watery eyes meets oily eyelids. (Double whammy). In truth, what works and is ‘waterproof‘ for one person doesn’t necessarily mean it’s universally so for the rest of us!! (We all have that friend who swears by her pencil liner, right?!) Nonetheless, I’ll probably continue to search for a pencil liner that lasts (the search has been 15+ years so far…). In my daily routine, I use liquid and I love how it lasts all day…but you’re right that the look is a lot more harsh…and as the years pass, it will be time to move towards a softer look (but I’ll worry about small details like that later!)
A great alternative to liquid liner is a gel liner. A gel liner gives a look that is more bold than a pencil look and not as harsh looking as liquid. I find if you apply gel liner light-handedly, you can achieve a similar finish to using a pencil. I like to either dust some translucent powder or apply a make-up sealer like Benefit’s She-lac atop the drawn line to help it last from day into night .
Particularly for Asian eyes with double lids (like mine!), I find that gel or liquid liners always produce the better longer lasting result. So yes…in other words, I would say it’s time to ditch the pencil!
Along with gel liner, try these alternatives and other useful products for lines that last:
1. MAC Chromaline: MAC Chromaline is a cream liner that glides on smoothly for a smudgeproof finish. Alternatively, I’ve used MAC’s Gel Liner in the past, but find that Chromaline consistently lasts longer. Apply it with a slanted synthetic brush for the best results. MAC Chromaline is available at MAC Pro stores.
2. MAC Paint: I always start my eye make-up off with a base. MAC Paints are cream eyeshadows that dry quickly to a matte finish. Even if I’m just wearing eyeliner and not necessarily eyeshadow, I’ll apply MAC Paint as a first step to help combat inevitably oily eyelids later in the day. To apply it, squeeze a tiny amount out of the tube and use the warmth of your fingers to blend it onto the eyelid. Both eyeliner and eyeshadow will last longer and any creasing will be minimized.
3. Benefit She-Lac: Now, this product is magic!! I re-inforce the cream liner I draw under the eyes, but applying this make-up sealer product atop of it. It’s also multi-purpose, you can layer it atop your make-up for your brows, your eyeshadow and your lips…guaranteed longer lasting lines! My brides love this product especially for their 16 hr+ days!
4. L’oreal Lineur Intense: A classic. I’ve been applying liquid liner since before I really knew how to use it (ahem high school), but that practice helped me to develop a steady hand. Liquid liner can be intimidating, as it can easily get messy. If you rest your hand atop your cheekbone, it will help to stabilize a shaky hand and you can apply liquid liner with ease. Liquid liner application gets better with practice and the pay-off is great: my liquid liner takes me from 6AM (when I start my day) to 12AM (a bedtime on a good night!).
So hope that helps to answer your question…let me know if you find anything that works before I do! Thanks for the question, Wanda! ;)
Posted in Q&A, Tips & Reviews
Tagged artistrhi, rhia amio, toronto make-up artist
Q & A | Pro Summer Beauty Tips with MAC Senior Artist, Caitlin C
artistrhi had the chance to chat with MAC Senior Artist, Caitlin Callahan for some tips on getting gorgeous for summer! Check out the Q & A below!
1. What are some key products to a quick and easy beauty routine for the summer?
A cream bronzer, tinted moisturizer, lipgloss, waterproof mascara. In the summer I ease off the powders for my clients and myself – the sun reveals all. It’s like God’s own HDTV. Lets see what I have in my makeup bag…Tarnish Eye Kohl, To The Beach Cream Bronzer, Studio Moisture Tint (dark), #109 brush, Splashproof Lash Mascara and Viva Glam V lipglass. Perfect, low-maintenance summer face. For eye shadow, try a Paintpot instead of a powder (Waterproof!!)
2. What are some common make-up mistakes women make when the weather heats up?
Using too much foundation and powder. Lay off! If there’s something that really needs concealing (like the friend that pops up on your chin right before a big date), use concealer. If you’re super oily, use a matte primer before your makeup instead of powder on top.
3. Any make-up tips for those of us that are sensitive to the sun but want that bronzed glow?
Start with SPF 50. Then apply a sheer coat of tinted moisturizer (you can go one shade darker because it’s so sheer.) Then apply bronzer (the cream ones look most natural) – start under you cheekbones and sweep towards your nose. As the product wears off your brush, apply to forehead, apples of cheeks and a touch on the nose. Super sunkissed.
4. I’ve been told powder can look too “heavy” during the summer season, but I have a very oily T-zone so I feel like I need it especially during the summer. Can I improve my skin care routine or are there other products that can help me combat shine?
See above. Start with MAC Matte through the t-zone after you’ve applied moisturizer. You’ll see what happens…it’s amazing!
5. My make-up seems to slide off with the summer heat! Any tricks of the trade to help prevent my eyeshadow from creasing and my foundation from melting?!
Primers are magical. But I’d also recommend easing off on the foundations and powders. Choose a Paintpot that you love (faves: Indianwood, Rubenesque and Artifact).
The latest MAC collection, To the Beach, is summer inspired and available as of May 29th at MAC stores and MAC counters. Product reviews of the collection’s Cream Bronzer to come! I’m loving it so far…I’ve been on a cream blush/bronzer kick as of late! :)
A huge thanks to Caitlin for answering our beauty questions! Be sure to follow Caitlin on Twitter for more beauty inspiration! :)
Images courtesy of MAC Cosmetics. Image layout by Rhia Amio.
Posted in Q&A
Tagged artistrhi, mac, rhia amio, toronto make-up artist
Q & A | Applying Eyeliner – Before or After?
Q: Do I apply eyeliner before or after eyeshadow? Before or after mascara?
A: The answer to this is easy….do both! I apply eyeliner as my first step and as my last step always…and here’s my rationale (you can decide if it’s actually rational):
1. Applying eyeliner first lets me get as tight to the lashes as possible, without having to worry about smudges that may imprint and ruin other make-up I have applied. If it smudges at the beginning of my routine – then no biggie – I can target the smudge and easily remove with a q-tip.
2. Applying eyeliner at the very end of your eye make-up routine gives the look a fresh and professional polish. When you apply it at the end, you can refine the line and fill in any gaps where the application of your eyeshadow/mascara you applied may have dulled it.
At the end of the day, the answer to this question is a really a matter of personal preference! If you only have so much time and prefer to apply eyeliner a maximum of one-time, apply it at the very end for a stronger look. If you prefer a less-is-more make-up approach, use a pencil liner first and then blend it with your eyeshadow to lightly define the eyes. If you like working with liquid liner, apply it as a last step always to preserve its intensity. (If you apply liquid liner first, make-up that gets applied over top of it tends to dull its intensity or cause breaks in your line! Always apply liquid liner last and spare yourself the grief!)
Whichever method you choose, you want the line to be continuous and smooth for a professional finish! Hope that helps!
Posted in Q&A
Tagged rhia amio, toronto make-up artist
Q & A | What contouring products do you recommend?
Q: What contouring products do you recommend?
A: Before I get into what products I’d recommend, let’s go through the basic principles of contouring (and its complement–highlighting) to make sure we’re all on the same page! Techniques of contouring and highlighting play on principles of dark and light:
Photo by Nadia CheemaCONTOURING
When you want to make areas on the face appear smaller, we ‘contour’ by applying a darker shaded product atop the area.
i.e. to make the nose appear smaller, to add more definition to the cheeks, to slim down the face and make your decolletage pop!HIGHLIGHTING
When we highlight, we apply a lighter shaded product on the area we want to bring forward. Highlighting works well with contouring, as it helps to exaggerate your contour by contrasting against it.
See this post for more info on contouring + highlighting!
Some products that I would recommended:
MAC’s Sculpt & Shape powders (which I think is only available via macpro.com)
This collection of powders are a great option for those looking to subtly contour. These powders are smooth with just the right amount of pigment that your application won’t look streaky.
Make-up Forever’s Sculpting Kit
Each MUFE Sculpting Kit comes complete with two shades – one shade for higlighting and a darker shade for contouring. The powders are finely-milled and not too pigmented, so no need to worry about a streaky looking finish! The kits are also available in four different colour combinations making it easier to find a pair that works with your own skin.
Being resourceful…
You don’t necessarily need to use a product that’s specifically marketed for ‘contouring’ or ‘highlighting’. I’ve used concealers, foundations and eyeshadows as contour/highlight products in the past. Here’s how to do it:
1. The real key is always blending (so that’s where your finger, brushes and sponges come in handy!). Blend well to get rid of any harsh lines!
2. For contour, be sure to use matte products (i.e. no shimmer!), as any products with reflective particles will look obvious and reveal your contouring secret!
3. Don’t choose a shade that’s too dark for your contour (i.e. 2-3 shades darker should be sufficient!), as it can make the area you’ve applied it to look ‘dirty’ rather than a natural shadow.
4. When using eyeshadow as contour (on areas other than the eyes), lightly dip your brush in some loose translucent powder first before dipping into your eyeshadow. The initial coat of powder will ensure your pigmented eyeshadow doesn’t glide on too strong! Blend, blend, blend (yup, it’s my mantra!).
Hope this helps!
Rhia
If you have a make-up related question you’d like to ask, drop me an email: rhia[at]artistrhi[dot]com or send me a message through the W Network. I look forward to hearing from you!
Posted in Q&A
Tagged face, rhia amio, toronto make-up artist
